BITE PREVENTION

 Here is my article on BITE PREVENTION.

I vividly remember the first time I was bitten by a dog.  It was a dog chained outside his owner’s house, and I was a very young child. I went there with my Mother, and was told it was okay to pet the dog.  As I had been instructed I bent down, and slowly reached out my hand for the dog to sniff.  He lunged foreword without warning and bit me.  My hand was bleeding and I was horrified. Why would this cute little dog do such a thing when I obviously meant him no harm?  Unknown to me at the time, I had broken several of the basic rules that dogs live by. 
1- I made direct eye contact.
2-I misinterpreted his wagging tail as a greeting.
3- I moved straight towards him.
4-I leaned slightly over him.
5-I put my hand into his personal space.
6-The dog was restrained, which likely activated his fight response. 

It’s a common belief that by walking up to a strange  dog and putting your hand out for the dog to sniff is the proper way to introduce yourself to them.  Nowadays more than ever this belief is getting people bitten, and healthy dogs euthanized. 

The majority of dogs naturally have a personal space area, a “bubble” per say.  Inside of that bubble their genetic survival instincts respond to perceived threats.  This area will be different for every dog, and every threat.

Dogs instinctively rely on four actions when they feel threatened.  Those are fight, flight, fidget, and freeze. 

Years ago we didn’t have the amount of nervous, anxious, and fearful dogs that we often see today in modern society, which adds to the problem.  Dogs were not as mass produced in puppy mills, and few came from other counties with little to no social skills.   
Many owners today are hesitant to advocate for their dogs, which in turn causes the dogs to deal with the situation.  Some breeds have also been intentionally bred to be more submissive overall, which unfortunately can cause them to be very insecure and easily stressed.

Resource guarding can also come into play.  To a dog a resource can be many things including food, a home, a toy, or even a person. 

With the necessary increased leash laws across the country we are seeing more dogs restrained by cables, chains, and leashes than ever before.
When a dog is restrained their flight response is removed, and very often their drive response is increased.  The added stress of spacial pressure from a stranger moving toward the dog is often all it takes for the dog to react.  Some dogs will freeze, and hope the situation resolves itself by the threat backing away- when the stranger continues to advance toward the dog is often when the bite occurs. This can cause long term behavioral issues with the dog, as well as being a huge legal liability for the owner.

Dogs sense of smell is up to 100,000 times better than ours. They can interpret our scent and intention from several feet away, there is no need to pressure the dog by getting into their personal bubble and forcing them to sniff our hand.

DO:
- Let the dog have the choice to come up to you, if they aren’t interested- so be it.
-Always ask first if you can pet a stranger’s  dog.  Be respectful and accept “NO”,  if that is the answer.   Personal dogs are NOT public property.  
-Learn to read the dog’s body language, looks can be very deceiving.  A wagging tail indicates arousal, NOT necessarily that the dog is friendly.  A dog with a stiff body stance should  be left alone. 
-Move slowly, don’t lean over them, nor stare directly into their eyes.
- Turning your body to the side is less threatening to the dog than facing them straight on.
-Stay relaxed and calm.
-For dogs who are elderly, deaf, or blind take extra time so as not to startle them.
-Any time the dog backs away from you immediately stop what you are doing.
-Teach children NOT to run up to dogs.

DON’T:
-Don’t  reach over the dogs head to pet them, a scratch under the jaw is  much less stressful for the dog than patting them on the head.
-Don’t come toward a dog with your arms open and outstretched.  The dog may interpret  this as you are going to grab them.
-Don’t ever hold a dog’s face, and force them to look into your eyes.
-Don’t reach out and hug a strange dog, this can easily be taken as a life threatening   intention by the dog.  Every year many children get bitten in the face by hugging dogs.

Advocate for your own dog- other than the Veterinarian and their staff no one “needs” to touch your dog.  Dogs can be and are socialized very well by just learning to co exist around new people and other dogs without physically interacting with them.
It’s okay to tell people NO they can’t pet your dog. 
If the person continues to advance, I get my dog behind me.
I put my hand up like a traffic cop toward the person, with a firm verbal “NO”, which works for most.  I can also look at my dog and firmly say “LEAVE IT”, totally ignore the person, and walk away.  I don’t engage in conversation with them if they cannot be respectful.  The safety and well being of my dog must come first.

For information on how to correctly introduce personal dogs to new dogs please see my Acquainting Two Dogs article.

Many more dog training articles are available at my link below, including Fear Aggression, Muzzle Conditioning, Deterrents for Aggressive Loose Dogs, Dog to Dog Reactivity, and Restraint Training for Dogs.  The site is open to the public, and free of charge.❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

Our Demo dog - Kenji! ❤️🐺❤️

 

WHINING DOGS

Here is my article on Whining Dogs.

First off, WHY are they whining?

That is a very good, yet a bit complicated question.There are many reasons why dogs whine, it can be a learned behavior, pain related, it can also be due to their genetics- certain breeds tend to be more vocal in general.  

Many breeds nowadays have been specifically bred to be more submissive, which in turn often makes the individual more insecure and needy.  Dogs will feed off each other’s behavior, and if one whines the others will often start as well.  Whining can be because they are uncomfortable, or because it got them something they desired- like attention or food.

Dogs are going to repeat behaviors that benefited them in the past.

Pain must be ruled out first as a cause, and it may not be easily visible.  I recommend having a complete physical done by a Veterinarian with full blood work panel as well. Dogs may have joint pain, digestive issues, allergies, or parasites- all of which can cause dogs to call out to us for help in the form of whining.

Are they getting enough mental and physical exercise? 

Perhaps they are frustrated - ask the dog to engage in something constructive first in exchange for your attention, THEN you can reward them.  

Set boundaries in the relationship with your dog, they thrive on a consistent daily structured life.  With a dog who whines for attention, everything should be earned.   I highly recommend using all the dogs daily meals as rewards for training.  Hand feeding gives “value” to the owner in the dog’s point of view.   Controlling the dogs most valuable resource gives us a huge advantage in training.  Asking them to do something basic like an already learned sit, down, or heel will encourage calm behavior from them, and helps put you in charge of the situation.  Wait them out until they respond, then reward them with praise, complying with their request, and occasionally with a piece of their daily meal.  Reward them for calm behavior, it will pay back threefold.  Always be more consistent than they are persistent.

Control your own emotions- dog’s watch and look to us for information, they pick up on our moods and behaviors.  If we are stressed or worried this will very often affect them as well.  

Often redirecting the whining into a constructive behavior works. Lots of mental games are helpful, especially for highly intelligent and active herding breeds.  Mental stimulation will often tire a dog faster than physical exercise.  Most dogs can be distracted with a chew - I have an entire article on various ones available on Chew Toys For Dogs.

Whining can be communicating excitement, as a greeting behavior.  People should greet the dog in a calm manner, and with a low pitch voice- if calm behavior is what you want to get back in return. Anxiety and whining in dogs is often created unknowingly by humans.  It’s very important NOT to make a big deal out of leaving the dog.   Stressed energy from us will cause anxiety in the dog, and then the person leaves them alone - and that is the state of mind they often stay in for hours.  I recommend leaving calmly and quietly, and give the dog an interactive food toy like a rubber Kong toy- filled with part of the dogs daily meal, if frozen even better as it will take longer for them to empty it. This usually distracts the dog long enough for you to get out the door before they realize you are gone.  Often the dog accepts the situation, and rests. Leaving white noise, TV, or classical music on can also help calm the dog while you are gone.  The same goes to when we come back home to the dog.  When I come home I DON’T immediately go to the dog, I take care of my own stuff first for a few minutes, allowing the dogs mind and adrenaline to settle a bit before letting him out of his crate or kennel.  This puts him in a calmer, more balanced state of mind- instead of the frenzied mind often caused by letting him out immediately. For dogs with severe anxiety I would buy an Impact or Gunner crate. They are expensive, but when you consider the potential damage to your property as well as Veterinarian costs for the dog getting hurt trying to get out or getting into something while out, these crates are well worth the money.                                                             Dogs often whine during the beginning of crate training, this is normal to an extent.  My article on Crate Training will help with conditioning the dog to love their crate. 

Fearful whining- fear is by definition an emotion, so  technically speaking we can validate - but not reinforce fear.   We can, however, redirect and reinforce the state of mind the dog is in- because dogs live in the now, and learn by action.   People want to believe they are helping the fearful dog by comforting it, like they would a frightened child.  The difference is dogs are not human children, and they cannot rationalize like humans can. If we are in a worried state of mind when petting a frightened dog, they will pick up on our unbalanced energy.  The petting will often be seen by the dog as praise, and we end up reinforcing the undesirable behavior they are doing at that moment.  By providing fearful dogs with consistently calm leadership and direction we will help guide them through their fears.  Training basic obedience, interrupting and redirecting towards a more positive activity, incorporating  structure into their daily routine, and giving praise and reward at the appropriate time, dogs will learn coping skills that will benefit them for the rest of their lives.

The whiny dog may be overstimulated.  In many dogs, especially ones under one year of age- a common reason for whining is the dog has sleep deprivation.  This occurs more often in households with young children.  Try scheduling the dog’s day with one hour of quiet crate time then one hour of play time outside the crate. Rotate throughout the day.  Repeat for a minimum of one week, then assess the dog’s behavior and schedule daily “naps” as needed.  Dogs always thrive best on a consistent daily schedule.  In the case where the pup has done something inappropriate, information in my Time Out Pup article describes the best way to utilize the crate in this circumstance.

Appeasement whining is a submissive behavior around others, and a form of  communication. Behavior may include yawning, lip licking, averting eyes, flattening ears, and tucked tail.   Confidence Building drills are excellent for bonding with your dog, as well as giving the dog a more balanced state of mind. Using the dog’s daily food as rewards or a favorite toy lure the dog in/under/through/onto safe objects. Start easy and gradually make the obstacles more difficult.  Lots of praise throughout the process.

TIPS:

You can train the WAIT and TAKE IT game to build impulse control, and focus on the handler.  Take a piece of food in your hand, with fist closed. Bring your hand close to the dog.  Give a verbal WAIT command.  Let the dog sniff, but don’t let them have it till they settle a bit and are calmer, then say TAKE IT, and open your hand and reward. Repeat.  Goal is to have calm, quiet behavior, and direct eye contact before rewarding. 

PLACE command is very helpful impulse control exercises for older pups, they will learn to go to their dog cot, lie down, be quiet, and stay there until given a release word. Sessions should be fairly short to start.  A tie back can be used at first, always supervised. I have a very detailed article on training PLACE.

Box Feeding, which is basically classical conditioning, can be an invaluable tool for a insecure, worried dog.  Using the dog’s daily meals they will learn to keep their heads inside the box while noise distractions are gradually added.  They learn the sounds are not to be feared, so they actually look forward to them because they are rewarded with pieces of their meals AFTER the scary noise and short pause.  This conditioning transfers over to their basic obedience, making an overall more mentally balanced dog.  I have a detailed article on Box Feeding.

Structured walks : The structured walk changes the dog’s behavior from a free for all to a calmer, more balanced state of mind. They should be daily or twice a day, and can be done indoors if the weather outside is unfavorable. I have a very detailed article on Structured Walks including many tips on how to easily reach your goal. 

I highly recommend Treadmill training-which is excellent for both the dog’s state of mind AND year round low impact physical exercise.  Just a walking speed, but with gradually added duration. I have an article on how to easily and safely treadmill train a dog.

Treatment from your Veterinarian in conjunction with training may be necessary for some dogs temporarily to help them learn coping skills.  There are many different options available from acupuncture and holistic medicine, to modern anti-anxiety treatment.

The Double Down/Head Down exercise combines already learned verbal commands with low level stimulation from a quality remote electronic collar.   When a dog’s body is in the lying down position, with their head down as well, their brain naturally starts to calm.  The electronic collar is used at lower levels as communication NOT as a correction. I have an article available on how to train this valuable exercise.

If the whining is just occasional, and not really a problem- you can ignore it until the whining stops, then immediately praise with a verbal “Good Quiet”.  My article on training  the QUIET command is useful if it’s just occasional nuisance whining.

A weighted vest can be very effective for whiny dogs.  I recommend the XDOG brand. Start with the vest empty, then add sand or metal BBs to the pockets very gradually up to ten percent of the dog’s body weight. This weight is for resting ONLY, as running or jumping with this weight could damage the dog. Thundershirts and Thunder Ease spray are also beneficial to many.

My site below contains my numerous articles with suggestions on how to help keep your pup,adult, or older dog mentally and physically occupied.

Index includes- Adolescent to Adult Problem Solving, Senior Dog Care, and Pup Basic Manners Training, and are available at my link below.  The site is open to the public, and free of charge. 

❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/ 

DOG BOOTS

 Here is my article on Dog Boots.

Often dog’s front paws are a full size larger than their back paws. 

With the harder material dog boots I will buy a size for each, which is ideal because it gives you two complete pairs in case one pair is wet/damaged you have a spare set.  

Be sure the boots are of good quality materials and proper fit, think of how we feel when shoes don’t fit us well.

There are several good  reasons to train your dog to wear boots on their paws.

Benefits:

-Dog boots will help prevent paws from getting snowballs in the fur between the toes and pad.

-They will give paw’s some protection from the extreme cold while walking on ice.  

Salt used on the roads can quickly dry pads so they crack and split causing open wounds. 

Ice can also be sharp and cut a dog’s pads.

-Provide a barrier between paws and hot pavement or sand.

-Create safer footing on areas where sharp debris are a hazard. 

- Keeping the dog’s paws themselves and inside the house cleaner. 

Having a dog already conditioned to wearing something on their paws will be very beneficial if they happen to get an injury, and need their paw bandaged. 

Tips:

-Use lots of praise and high grade treats like deli meat as rewards. 

-Do your training before the dog normally eats their daily meal, hungry dogs are more happy to cooperate.

-You can start practicing with loose human socks before the dog boots if necessary to get the dog accustomed to them.

-If needed break down this first step to handling the paw, the boot just touching the paw, half way on and remove, fully on and remove - rewarding with praise and a piece of food after each action. 

Training:

Take one front paw and put the boot on,reward, walk the dog around, praise and reward. 

Put second boot on other front paw, same sequence as above.

Put third boot on one back paw, same sequence as above.

Put last boot on remaining paw, same sequence as above. 

Remove the boots at regular intervals to make sure they are not rubbing on the dog’s dew claws or paws.  Dew claws can be wrapped loosely with Vet wrap if needed before putting boots on to help prevent rubbing. Human toddler’s socks can also be used inside the  boots, wrap the top with two strips of velcro to secure. 

My preferred brand of Winter dog boots are sled dog booties sold by “Mountain Ridge”. Kenji is wearing a set of orange ones in the photo, they make different colors and styles.  Their Velcro has elasticity and holds well.  If going in deep snow I recommend lightly covering the velcro with electrical tape, leave a short tab of tape flipped over at the end for easier removal.  

Warm weather paw protection should be of breathable material, because dog’s sweat through their pads. Summer time on hot pavement Kenji wears the “Hipaw Summer Breathable Dog Boot”, sold on Amazon. 

🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸

For pad protection I use and recommend Musher’s Secret, which is a highly effective wax based formula, and non-toxic.  Rub thoroughly into the areas between and over the pad and toes.

I coat the dew claw toes as well to keep them soft and pliable.  Used as needed year round. 

More articles on dog training and care are available at my link below, the site is open to the public and free of charge.❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

LOST DOG RECOVERY

 Here is my article on Lost Dog Recovery. 

The first 24 hours are critical, and offer you the best chance of getting your dog back safely.  Do whatever you have to to dedicate this time entirely to finding your dog. 

Domesticated dogs when lost can quickly go into Survival Mode where they revert back to their primal instincts. When a dog is stressed, serotonin is suddenly depleted resulting in short term memory loss- pushing the dog into survival mode. This can happen almost immediately, or take a couple of weeks to occur.  If your dog normally comes to you and now runs away, he has likely gone into survival mode. They search only for food/water, shelter, and safety. They are fearful of humans, and will not even recognize their owner by sight alone. They have to get the scent of their human to remember. 

A live trap may be necessary to catch the dog at this point.

Check the trap every few hours, be patient, it may not work right away. If after a week the dog has not entered the trap I would move it to a new location.

If you can get close to the dog, offer high odor foods like cooked bacon, or hamburgers.

Toss the food to him if he won’t take it from your hand.  Getting him close enough to pick up the owners scent may be enough for him to remember and recognize the owner. Lying down on the ground, NOT making eye contact often lures the fearful dog closer. Cooking bacon in the area where the dog has been seen can be helpful, the strong scent travels.

If the dog is staying in one area bring a large bowl of water, and things with his scent on them like his blanket or bed, and a piece of the owner’s used clothing, place them in a sheltered area with brush or trees, instead of out in the open.  A hungry dog is more likely to get caught, so I don’t leave food unless it’s in a trap.  Food on the open ground will attract other animals, which may drive your dog away.  

Survival mode is only temporary, and once the dog is captured they will quickly return to normal.

Be PROACTIVE  before your dog gets lost:

-Have a clear current color photo of your dog available.

-Microchip your dog, license them, and put ID on your dogs collar.   A flat buckle or a snug martingale collar, embroidered with dog’s name and your  phone number are the best. Second best would be an engraved tag riveted to a collar, third  best would be a dog tag hanging from a collar.  Dogs who are licensed can be traced if they are wearing a tag when they are found.

-Have the local animal organizations phone numbers ready in your address book and cell phone. 

- Wearing a GPS collar will send the dog’s location to your cell phone.  Be sure to keep the battery charged.

-Train your dog so they have a solid recall, and to wait for a release word at thresholds. 

-Many dogs are lost when the bolt out a vehicle or house door.   I have detailed articles on training Recall, as well as Barrier and Threshold Training.

Here are some SUGGESTIONS:

- Sometimes the sound of kibble being dropped into a dogs food bowl, or his favorite squeaky toy may entice the dog to come back.

-Dogs that are microchipped have a much higher chance of being reunited with their owners. Call the microchip company immediately and tell them you know the dog is lost, as they often have poster templates and other suggestions that may help.

-Keep collar ID tags updated with two contact phone numbers, home city, and state.

-Rescues/shelters usually don’t keep microchip records once the pet is adopted, so the new owner must have updated that information- or else it is useless.

-Licensed dogs can be traced back to their owners by the license number. Be sure your contact information is current.

- Automated services like LostMy Doggie and FindToto for a fee will immediately send out Amber Alerts, and phone or email thousands of people that may have seen your dog.

- Leave an article of your dirty clothing, the dogs bed or blanket, and a large bowl of water in the area last seen. Often dogs will stay by that. Dogs are most active at dawn and dusk.

- Search the area, enlist neighborhood kids to help by offering them a reward.

-Talk to delivery and postal people.

- Post with a photo on social media, ask people to please SHARE your post.

- Contact local Animal Control, local Shelters, Veterinarians,Kennels, Pet Store, Sheriff’s office dispatch clerk, and rescues by phone. Some organizations will not tell you over the phone if they have the dog, so it’s best to also go in person, and ask if you can leave a poster and contact information with them.

- Keep visiting local dog parks and shelters to check, continue to hand out flyers. 

- File a lost pet report with all organizations within a 60 mile radius of the area the dog was lost in. 

-Search online in 3-5 adjoining counties. 

-A Craigslist lost dog ad may produce results. Check newspaper classified “found” ads as well.

-Put an ad in the local newspaper.

-Get local radio and TV to run an ad. 

-Put large signs up at your home, people driving and walking by may recognize the dog.

-Make up 8”x 10” posters which are colorful and eye catching, have a current clear photo of dog, note distinguishing markings, reward if offered, ( leave out one thing about your pets description, so you can use that to verify that the person does actually have your dog, as there are people who will try and have you wire them money to get the dog,and they don’t actually have them).  Add information like medications needed, DO NOT CHASE, wearing collar ( what color), dragging leash, last seen at what location. Add two contact numbers, and an email address to the poster. Putting small tear off strips at the bottom of the poster, each containing LOST DOG and your contact numbers makes it more convenient for a person to contact you.

- Post signs in well lit areas at eye level in convenience stores, supermarkets, community post  boards, entrances and exits to Parks, Bus stops,  phone poles, local coffee shop, anywhere it is legal to post them.

- Make up smaller business card sized posters you can hand out.

- In bilingual communities put up signs in both languages.

-www.animal-care.com sells large live traps. Dog wardens may also have live traps.

- Sometimes it takes weeks, even months or years to find a missing dog, don’t give up!

Use CAUTION:

-Never agree to pay a reward until you have the dog safely in hand.

- Be wary of Pet Recovery / Pet Detectives, anyone can put a “search dog” vest on an untrained dog and charge you a fee, so be sure to get references from them.

- If someone claims to have your dog, but won’t return him, call the police department.

- Never go to pickup your found dog alone, tell someone exactly where you are going, take a cell phone with you, and at least one other adult.

More articles like Runaway Syndrome,  Noise Phobias and Dogs, Pup Basic Manners Training, and Senior Dog Care are at my sites below, which are open to the public and free of charge.

 ❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell/

DETERRENTS FOR AGGRESSIVE LOOSE DOGS

 Here is my article on Deterrents For Aggressive Loose Dogs.

I feel this is a very common and important subject.  People should know how to protect themselves and their leashed dogs when out for a walk.
Most aggressive loose dogs are bluffing,  but there are also loose dogs out there that will attack another dog with the intent to do damage. 

It’s my hope that giving people some ideas and options they will be better prepared in the unfortunate event that it happens to them.

KNOW THE LAWS:
-If you damage another persons dog in the process of defending yourself/your dog - regardless of if it attacked you/your leashed dog first- you may still be held responsible by law for the damaged dog.
-Abide by your local laws on what you can carry to defend yourself.  

In the event you/your dog are damaged you will want the authorities on your side.
-Be a responsible dog owner, and keep your own dogs leashed where the law requires it. 

THINGS YOU CAN TRY:
- No single method is always going to work in every case.  Having a  “Plan B” is advisable.
-If there is a leash law where you live, call animal control until you get some results concerning the loose dogs.
- Slowly walk away at an angle if possible-  keep the dog in the corner of your eye, and be ready in case they decide to charge again.  
-Be proactive,  plan ahead for what might happen, watch a block or more ahead of you for loose dogs, so you can change your path to avoid them.
-Walk with someone else as backup, there is safety in numbers.
-If the owner is nearby ask them to PLEASE call their dog, some will comply.
-Train your own dog to get behind you- most dogs will attack another dog, but are very reluctant to attack a human.  Taking your own dog out of the equation will help greatly.
-Pointing a finger at the oncoming dog and giving a firm, loud verbal “NO!” may help.   If you know the dogs name, use that as well.
-Don’t panic, don’t run- It encourages their prey drive, and dogs can easily out run you.
-Sometimes having your own dog go into a DOWN position before the aggressive dog gets to you may help neutralize the situation, as now they are seen as less of a threat.  
-Put a jacket or backpack between you and the oncoming dog, keep in mind you want to protect your own head, neck, and vital organs.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE BITTEN:
- Get the name and address of the loose dog’s owner.

- Get the names and addresses of any witnesses.

- Document the loose dog on video if possible, this will help prove your case.

-If you or your dog are bitten by another dog, immediately call the police and fill out a written complaint. 
-Get photos of the damage, record the date and time.
-Keep any Veterinary records of damage to your dog.
-Keep any hospital or Doctors records if you got hurt.

PRODUCT OPTIONS:
Living in New York I am very limited by what I can carry - these are all products anyone can legally carry.  I recommend desensitizing your own dogs to these products prior to using them against loose dogs when you are out and about. 

Bang Snaps Poppers- These are made from a small amount of sand or gravel, impregnated with a very small amount of silver fulminate and placed ball like inside cigarette paper.  When thrown against the ground it produces a loud bang.  They are safe (don’t allow your dog to eat them) effective, and inexpensive.  I remove them from the baggie, and throw the whole handful down hard against the ground towards the oncoming dog. Adding a firm verbal “NO!” just before the throw is also helpful. 

I use a Doggie Don’t Device which is a very loud battery operated product that sounds like high voltage. Audible only, no physical effects. 

Effective against coyotes as well. 

Opening a large umbrella quickly towards the oncoming dog, along with a firm verbal “NO!” can be very effective. Dogs see the colors blue and yellow the best, my choice for this would be yellow. You can even paint large eyes on it to appear more intimidating.👁👁

Pet Corrector and Pet Convincer are both compressed air in a can or cylinder which emit a burst of air and a hissing sound which startle the dogs.  Air horns or a sharp sounding whistle can also be effective. 

Be forewarned that pain can make some dogs MORE aggressive, which is something to keep in mind when choosing a deterrent.  
Here are a few more options.
-Citronella spray
-Water bottle with cider vinegar in it.
-Pennies inside a tin can, shaken may startle and discourage some dogs.
-Golf club, often a dog will bite the first thing it gets to.
- Clatter stick
-Walking stick
-Ski pole
-Shock prod for livestock 

Throwing treats to an aggressive dog is a double edged sword, because it may distract them away from you, but it also is rewarding them for being aggressive.  Most truly aggressive dogs won’t be interested in treats.

Legal to carry, but may damage the aggressive dog’s eyes- plus you may also get spray back into your own dog’s, or your eyes.

-Halt Dog Repellant
-Wasp spray 
-Bear spray
- Gel Mace with UV dye.  Thicker and more effective than regular Mace.  The color and pepper scent may stop the dog before it gets to you. 

BREAKING UP A DOGFIGHT- always use caution, as dogs often redirect on humans if they are touched when they are in the rage of a fight.  Any time you put your hands near two dogs fighting there is a chance of getting bitten.
If you get a slip lead on the aggressive dog’s neck and then they try to bite you- pull the lead firmly upward until the dog’s front feet aren’t touching the ground.  Once they relax immediately lower them. This is to be used an emergency self preservation procedure only.

- #1 most important thing is STAYING CALM. 
-Throw a blanket, towel or coat over the two dogs. A “weighted” blanket works best.
-Use a barrier like a metal garbage can lid, or wide board to block them from each other.
-Bang metal dog bowls together, sometimes the noise will stop them.
-Hose sprayed or a bucket of water thrown on them.
-A straw broom can be used to “porcupine “ the aggressive dog in the face, the sensitive area of the flank, or right behind the dog’s ears.  Add a firm verbal “NO!” at the same time.
-Put a slip lead or leash threaded through it’s handle on the most aggressive dog, around his neck or groin area, pull him to a secure object like a fence and tie him off. I carry an extra 6’ nylon lead with me. 
Use a belt if you don’t have a lead.  Often once the more aggressive dog has stopped fighting, the other will automatically stop as well.
-Train your own dogs the OUT command, proof it solid. I have a detailed article on training this.
-Use a fire extinguisher sprayed just above their heads.
-For tiny dogs fighting, someone wearing pants may be able to use their legs/ feet to separate them.
-Most breeds of dogs snap and bite at each other when they fight.  Bully breed types tend to bite and hold instead, often thrashing to rip off a large piece of flesh.  For a bully breed dog that has a solid grip on you or your dog, and won’t release- you can use a large plastic tent stake ( ground stake) to break their hold.  This can be used as a bite/ break stick ( which are illegal to carry in NY because they are considered dogfighting paraphernalia) on bully breeds that have a firm grip on you or your dog. It is recommended this be only used on bully breeds.  I don’t have personal experience using one to break a hold, so I don’t feel qualified to explain the proper method here. There are videos on the internet showing the procedure.

AFTER THE FIGHT - If the last thing the two dogs remember is fighting, it will usually continue.  If you have cooperation from the other dog’s owner, immediately take both dogs together for a structured walk for at least an hour. One handler per dog.
I have a detailed article on Structured Walks, with many easy to learn training tips to help you achieve your goal.  I also have an article on Acquainting Two Dogs, which has additional useful information.

I’m personally willing to do whatever it takes to protect my dog, which includes driving elsewhere to walk my dog-  because honestly it’s just not worth the risk of getting my dog and/or myself damaged because of irresponsible dog owners.  
The choice is yours, choose wisely.

Disclaimer: All information above is to be used at the readers own personal risk. Neither All Basics - Dog Training nor Kim Chappell shall be held liable for the readers use of said products and or procedures.

More dog training articles like Dog To Dog Reactivity, Fear Aggression, Bite Prevention, Muzzle Conditioning, and Adolescent to Adult- Problem Solving are on my links below.  The sites are both open to the public, and free of charge. ❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell/

DOG TO DOG REACTIVITY

 Here is my article on Dog to Dog Reactivity .

There are very few true red zone dog aggressive dogs, who want nothing more than to kill another dog.  

Most aggression in dogs is actually fear based, and dogs who show aggression towards another dog are usually being reactive- having learned their behavior makes the threat go away.  
Adding consistent daily structure, and counter conditioning by giving the dog other options are often very effective in helping the majority of dog reactive dogs lead more balanced, happier lives. 

Dogs don’t “need” to directly meet dogs from other households. 
Many dogs are just not comfortable engaging with strange dogs. 
Co-existing calmly around other dogs is all that should ever be expected. 

Dogs only have fight, flight, fidget, or freeze as responses to a fearful situation.
If a dog is on a leash it cannot run- leaving their only choices of freeze or fidget, with the hope that the threat stops/retreats - or the fight option if they don’t.  
Dogs learn very quickly to do what benefits them, and then it often becomes a habit.

Reactive dogs can get socialized by just being around other dogs in a safe, controlled manner.  Structured walks are excellent for this. I have a great article on Structured Walks, with many easy to understand training tips to help you achieve your goal.

ADVOCATE for your dog, keep them safe- this is so very important. 
Often once the dog learns their human is advocating for them, much of the reactivity stops.

Reward the dog for good behavior - for the dog just sitting there being calm during distractions.   It will pay back threefold.  Both calm praise and food are valuable rewards.  

Learn how to protect yourself and your leashed dog from loose dogs when out for a walk.  
It’s my hope that in giving people some ideas and options they will be better prepared in the unfortunate event that they are faced with this situation.   Please see my article on Deterrents For Aggressive Loose Dogs for more information. 

Train your reactive dog to get behind you when a loose dog approaches. Many loose dogs will attack another dog, but are very reluctant to attack a human.  Taking your own dog out of the equation will help immensely.

Train your reactive dog the verbal OUT command, which is to completely disengage from whatever is in their mouths, or whatever they are looking at. This is an excellent command for dogs who resource guard as well.  I have an article at my site which explains how to easily train this using lures and tug toys. 

Training TOUCH (to a hand) is also a very helpful command, as a redirection away from another dog.  I use a clicker to train this, every click indicates to the dog they have done well, and will be rewarded with a piece of their food.  

I recommend using ALL the reactive dog’s daily meals as rewards for training, and good behavior.  Hand feeding gives “ value” to the human from the dogs point of view, instead of giving “value “ to the dog bowl.  It helps the dog focus on the handler instead of being distracted, this is a huge advantage in our favor. 

Training your reactive dog a few impulse control exercises like the PLACE command will help with bonding, and keeping your leadership position in the household. 
I have a detailed article on how to train PLACE. 

If it is necessary for a reactive dog to actually directly interact with a strange dog, as in adding another dog to your household - I have a very detailed article on “Acquainting Two Dogs” at my site, which has many suggestions for different situations.

If you do choose to let your reactive dog directly interact- choose one healthy, mentally well balanced dog for your dog to spend time with. You can often build more dog friends off that.  Sometimes dogs will feel less threatened by a smaller, well balanced dog at first.
Good play involves both dogs enjoying the play- no bullying is allowed, ever. 

More dog training articles like Fear Aggression, Bite Prevention, Adolescent to Adult- Dog Training Solutions, and Muzzle Conditioning, are on my links below.  The sites are open to the public, and free of charge. ❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell/