STRANGER DANGER! (Stranger reactive dogs)

Here is my article on  STRANGER DANGER! 

(Stranger reactive dogs)

Dogs that are reactive to strangers is a very common problem- many dogs don’t trust their human to keep them safe, so the dog is forced to deal with the situation in their own way.  

Usually in this situation once the human starts consistently advocating for the dog, most (if not all) of the stranger reactivity stops.

Being an advocate for your dog is just as important as being their caretaker. Advocating protects the dog (and others around them) from the stress and potentially dangerous actions as a result of the dog’s fearful behavior.   Just one mishap can set your training and trust the dog has in you back by months. 

I would never expect a “Do Not Pet” vest to stop a stranger- in fact, the vest often encourages certain individuals to go out of their way to touch the dog because they have everything to gain and nothing to loose. They feel they are entitled, and get a big ego boost because they did something they were directly told not to.   If the dog bites the stranger it will most often be the dog and owner who are penalized, having a “Do Not Pet” vest on the dog won’t hold up as enough evidence with authorities- or in court.   

THINGS YOU CAN TRY

Create space- I train my dogs a verbal cue to get behind me, this allows me to physically block the oncoming stranger if needed.

Train the BETWEEN (or MIDDLE) command to your dog, most people are hesitant to put their hands on a dog’s head when it is right below a stranger’s crotch!   😏

I stand up straight with my hand facing palm out towards the stranger (like a traffic cop), solid eye contact, and a very firm “NO!”, this will stop most.

Saying a firm verbal LEAVE IT to your dog and calmly walking away from the stranger is often an effective option.   Never run away, you may be seen as prey.

SUGGESTIONS

Always pay attention and be on the alert for potential issues. 

I’m never on my cell phone when I am handling my dog in public.  

No to music on earbuds as well. 

Be hyper vigilant to your surroundings, similar to driving a vehicle- watch for a safe way out.   Rearrange your route of travel if needed to avoid conflict. 

It’s imperative to put your dog’s safety above feeling uncomfortable about a biased opinion from a stranger.    It’s okay to come across as unfriendly or rude to a stranger who is being disrespectful.  Entitled strangers don’t feel bad for ignoring your boundaries, embarrassed for being intentionally rude to you, or sad for putting you and your dog in a dangerous position- often very much the opposite.

My dogs are also all properly muzzle conditioned so they are comfortable wearing one, strangers are MUCH less apt to want to touch a muzzled dog.  You can tell  people the dog is wearing a muzzle for it’s own protection, not for theirs.    Even good dogs wear muzzles.   I have a detailed article on how to train proper muzzle conditioning at my blog.

Think about this for a moment, it may help you get a better mindset for advocating.  What if your dog was actually your human baby, and a stranger was going to do something threatening to your baby.

How would you feel?

LEARNING TO ADVOCATE

Start practicing in front of the mirror- stand up proudly, attitude is everything.   Focus on being calm and confident.    Practice until it becomes muscle memory. It’s hard at first- but the more you do it, the easier it becomes.   You can even reward yourself with some special tasty treats when practicing, pieces of chocolate work for me!

WHAT TO SAY WHEN STRANGERS CONTINUE TO ADVANCE

“NO”is a complete sentence, if that is all you want to say, then that’s fine.

“Sorry, but he doesn't like to be petted.”

“Not while he is working, Ma’am/ Sir”.

“Please do not approach my dog”

“No, he is in training”.

“Please give us space”

“Sorry- she is old and is in pain, so please don’t touch her”

 Once you begin feeling more confident, start practicing with your friends and family members.  You can have them give you honest feedback as well, if you feel that would be helpful.  Then once you have mastered that, start applying it in real life scenarios. 

When it comes to your dog , he looks up to you to advocate and protect him.   Doing so will help build a greater bond with your dog.   Other than your Veterinarian and staff, no one “needs” to touch your dog. 

And yes, I have had to physically push a person back away from a client’s dog I was handling when the person repeatedly insisted on forcing her hand into the reactive dog’s face “to say Hi”.   Believe me- the alternative of the woman getting bitten would have been much, much worse for everyone involved- especially for the dog.

Personal dogs are NOT public property.   

Advocate for your dog like their life depends on it, for someday it well may.

More articles like Pup Basic Manners Training, Building Engagement With Your Dog, Senior Dog Care, Training Recall, Deterrents for Aggressive Loose Dogs, and Structured Walks are available at my blog- which is open to the public, and free of charge. ❤️🐺❤️

                                                          Kenji

DOGS AND TOXINS

There are many things dogs shouldn’t eat, other than chocolate.

A tiny dog is more apt to have a higher reaction than a larger breed to the same amount of a substance. Some dogs are also more overly sensitive to certain toxins than others.

Some things will make dogs sick, while many others will quickly kill them.

Pups are more likely to be taste testing and putting everything in their mouths, so they are especially vulnerable.

The toxins list is massive, but I will mention a few common ones to watch for.

Many plants- both house plants and outdoor varieties, are highly toxic if eaten. The entire plant Lilly of the Valley is extremely dangerous- it can actually leach toxins from it’s roots into water, and make that poisonous as well. Sago Palm, Azaleas, Christmas Cactus, Poppies, and Foxglove all should be avoided around dogs. Dogs will sometimes even eat tobacco and marijuana, which can often require a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic.

Cocoa mulch is very toxic, and dogs will seek it out because they love the taste.

The seeds from peaches, cherries and plums are all toxic.

Radiator fluid is very sweet tasting, and dogs will drink it readily right off the ground, again highly toxic. Some companies have now added a bitter taste to their products, which should decrease the number of animals and children killed from drinking radiator fluid.

Mouse bait, even in very small amounts, can be deadly if the dog isn’t treated immediately after ingesting it.

Sugar free products, especially ones containing Xylitol like some peanut butters and gum can be deadly.

Common household foods like raisins, grapes, yeast dough, onions, alcohol, macadamia nuts, caffeine, and high salt/high sugary foods need to be stored away safely.

A dog eating too much meat fat can quickly develop pancreatitis.

Many human prescription medications are a problem as well- while some dogs will snag a bottle and chew it open, others will find pills on the floor and quickly eat them.

Seconds count when a dog has swallowed a toxin. I keep food grade 3% hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting in dogs, and ToxiBan- which slows absorption of toxins. These all have my current dog’s dosage written right on the bottles, and I also have a large syringe readily available with them. It’s important to pre condition your dogs to accept liquid from a syringe, small amounts of low salt bone broth works well, most dogs love the taste.

                                                   Kenji

Here is my article on BUILDING ENGAGEMENT WITH YOUR DOG.

Some dogs genetically have low pack drive, are extremely independent, and would prefer to just do their own thing (other than being fed, of course), without humans.  Others have lost their trust in people- before I got him my current Australian Cattle Dog “Kenji”, was one of those dogs.

Doing engagement techniques with your dog will help with bonding- as well as making them more resilient to stress. The dog will learn coping skills to recover faster from setbacks, have less anxiety/fear, and maintain a more positive attitude towards life in general. 

Dogs pick up very quickly on our inner emotional and physical energy- if we are happy and enthusiastic, the dog is much more likely to react favorably.  Canines also often imitate other members in their pack, including the humans. 

Sometimes having high value food inside an interactive toy will help the dog gain interest in playing with the toy. This can be transferred over to utilizing the toy so that the dog plays with you.

Luring: The purpose of luring is to increase prey drive in the dog, and bonding/engagement with the owner.  It’s also great exercise for the dog, and helps satisfy their need to bite.  While my methods do increase prey drive, it’s in a controlled manner in which yes and no are very clear to the dog.   Engage the dog’s prey drive by tugging a fuzzy toy along the ground- move it rapidly backwards, forwards, and in a zig zag pattern. The dog MUST be able to eventually catch the lure during the game.  I use and recommend the Chase ‘N Pull toy. A homemade soft toy well attached to a strong string with a PVC pole will often work too. I utilize the “OUT” or “DROP” command- which is to completely disengage from whatever is in their mouths, or whatever they are looking at. My blog contains a detailed article on “OUT”.  *Younger pups should not be encouraged to jump up to get the lure, as their joints may not be sealed yet. Used in moderation dragging the lure along the ground for them to chase, and light tugging is fine for most pups. Light tugging should be done so that the toy and pup are kept horizontally, as tugging upward could cause damage to a young pup’s neck or spine.

To build engagement always stop playing BEFORE the dog wants to stop. Even if the dog only plays for 30 seconds, stop at 29 seconds. Be consistent with this, and very gradually add more duration. Results with this method are astonishing.

Dogs who have many toys always around never really learn to appreciate them. I get one special toy, maybe leather/sheepskin/fur whatever the dog really loves- that only comes out for a very limited time, and only when he is engaging with you.

Try playing with the toy by yourself- have the dog tied nearby without other distractions, so they see you playing. Holding the dog back builds drive, it makes them WANT to engage in the fun. 

Many dog’s like balls, especially ones that squeak when bitten. To build engagement, try bouncing a ball against a wall, and get very excited about the play. Again, dog is on tie back with nothing better to do than watch. You can also try having another dog (or several), that gets really excited over play in front of the tied dog, this can really help build their desire to join in.

A tug toy is fabulous for building engagement!   All dogs get a dopamine rush from biting, some breeds enjoy it much more than others.  All dogs should be trained the verbal “OUT” or “DROP” command, and this should be used several times during tug play.  Immediately reward a fast “OUT” by continuing the game a bit longer.  I use the word “DONE” so the dog understands when the game is finally over.  When used consistently this word also works as an “OFF” switch for the dog.   A solid “OUT” command can be a lifesaver if the dog has something dangerous in its mouth.  * I don’t recommend playing tug with a serious resource guarder- as they may choose to bite you instead, win the tug, and reinforce their bad habit.

I highly recommend using the dog’s daily meals as rewards for training, this is one of the best things you can do for bonding with your dog.  Hand feeding gives “value” to the owner in the dog’s point of view, instead of giving the food bowl value. Dogs will take for granted what is given freely, controlling the dog’s most valuable resource gives us a huge advantage in training. I always set the dog up to win, none of the dogs I’ve worked with have ever missed a daily meal training this way.

Recall on a longline, using pieces of the dog’s meal. Let the dog move about in a mildly distractingly area, then call the dog’s name. When they come towards you, step back a couple feet, stay animated and exciting, then reward the dog when they reach you.

Confidence building exercises are also excellent. Luring the dog by hand with high grade food rewards up/under/over/through all sorts of safe natural and man made objects helps with engagement, as well as building trust and bonding with your dog.

Have the dog checked by a Veterinarian if it seems less active than it should be, as low thyroid is common in dogs.  I’ve found the in-house Veterinary thyroid tests are very good for cats, but not as reliable on dogs. There is a much more accurate out lab dog thyroid test available which is significantly more costly, but if the dog is showing low thyroid symptoms I highly recommend getting it done.  Thyroid medication given in the correct dosages will make a huge difference on a low thyroid dog. 

CLICKER- A clicker is the fastest way to tell the dog they have done well. A food reward must be given every time it is clicked. Dogs are much more enthusiastic when they know the reward is guaranteed.

HIDE AND SEEK- a great game for building drive and engagement. Have someone hold the dog, and you go just slightly out of sight of the dog, call the dog’s name, then your recall word HERE/COME. The helper releases the dog. When the dog reaches you give a jackpot (handful of the dog’s daily meal) to the dog. Lengthen distance and difficulty gradually, the dog will start using it’s nose as well as it’s eyes to find you. 

WAIT and TAKE IT game is used to build calm behavior, and focus on the handler. Take a piece of food in your hand, with fist closed. Bring your hand close to the dog. Give a verbal WAIT command. Let the dog sniff, but don’t let them have it until they settle a bit and are calmer, then say TAKE IT, open your hand and reward.

FOCUS GAME using the dog’s daily meals. Have the dog sit on a safe raised object. Stand in front of the dog. Let the dog see you take two pieces of their food, one in each hand. Outstretch your arms all the way out from your side. Look directly at the dog’s eyes and make a “kissy” sounds or other attention getting noise with your mouth. The instant the dog turns their gaze from your hand to your face IMMEDIATELY say YES! - and reward from either hand. Repeat often for best results.

TOUCH is also a very helpful command. Hold a safe object like an empty water bottle in front of the dog, usually curiosity will lead the dog to put its nose on it. Immediatly reward the dog. If they are uninterested, put a piece of kibble inside the bottle and shake it- reward when dog touches the bottle. Add the verbal cue TOUCH once they get the idea. If the dog tries to bite the bottle, use a two quart sized one instead. Once the verbal command is learned it can be used to get the dog’s attention away from other distractions. It can also help position the dog while doing basic obedience like heel. The TOUCH command is also very valuable when I have a dog who is worried about an object. Utilizing a clicker, I’ll condition the dog to touch the fearful object - then reward them for doing so.

TRAIN SIMPLE TRICKS- ones that dogs often love are fast paced like SPIN, CATCH, and BACK.

ADDING VARIATION keeps training more exciting for the dog and keeps them engaged longer. Be consistent with the training, but inconsistent with the routine you use. Switch hands when using food, add in a fast trick like spin. During obedience work throw a trick in, or a quick game of tug (providing the dog understands the release rules of tug), then add another obedience exercise.

TRAINING EQUIPMENT - A specific collar/harness are often used by law enforcement and the military for tracking, a different one for protection work, a different one for being a house pet. The dogs quickly associate the equipment with the exercise, and disengage from that exercise when the equipment is off. Utilizing a specific collar on the dog can also mean “food is now available through training” and taking it off means “training is over, window is closed”. This can really help the dog to distinguish the difference between engagement work/play and relax time- thus training the dog to learn to have an OFF switch.

More articles like Adolescent to Adult- Problem Solving, Pup Basic Manners Training, Dog to Dog Reactivity, Nail Trimming, and Senior Dog Care are available at my All Basics-Dog Training blog, which is open to the public and free of charge.

My past girl Zoë- winning costume class, tricks class, and overall BEST IN SHOW.

NEIGHBORHOOD DOG’S EXCESSIVE BARKING

 Here is my article on Neighborhood Dog’s Excessive Barking.

One of the main reasons human’s started keeping dogs was because they would bark, and alert them to potential danger. For centuries man has selectively bred certain qualities into dogs, and to this day alerting is still seen by most dog owners as a positive thing.

Dog’s know nothing of property lines nor posted signs. To a dog, what land they can see or have accessed belongs to them- and should be guarded from strangers. Responsible dog owners work with their dogs, and train them not to bark excessively.

Most dogs who bark to the point of being a nuisance are not getting their mental and physical breed specific needs met- this isn’t a dog problem, it’s an owner problem. You will want the law on your side, regardless of how you handle this. Be sure to keep a log with the dates, times, frequency, and duration of the barking.  Your local town clerk should be able to tell you if your area has a noise ordinance (which is a law), and what that entails. If broken- the police will respond to a noise ordinance issue, and this may resolve the situation.

You could talk to the neighbor about their dog barking, they may not be aware it is actually a problem. If they are cooperative, you could go with the owner and meet the dog personally with some high grade food treats- which to a dog can make a stranger into a best friend pretty quickly. Once the dog sees you are nice, and not a stranger anymore- they often completely stop barking at you.

There are more laws now about chaining a dog outside, and the length of time that can be. The dog warden for your area will have that information. Sometimes getting animal control involved is the best thing for the dog, as the lucky ones may be re homed to someone who will give them a better life- but there is also a good chance the dog will end up getting euthanized because of behavior issues, or just lack of space at the facility.

If other neighbors are also complaining to the owner about the barking, this peer pressure can quickly get positive results in your favor. Getting a petition signed by everyone in your neighborhood can also be very effective in stopping unwanted barking. A privacy screen set up on your property to block the dog’s vision can help to minimize excessive barking. Try contacting the Homeowner’s Association if you are in one, they usually take noise seriously.

I, unfortunately, have dealt with some pretty uncooperative neighbors in the past - I found if their dogs are barking at me, it was usually because the neighbor’s want them aggressive to keep people away. What I do is find out the dog’s name ( usually the owner is swearing and screaming at the dogs, so name is pretty easy to hear), and when they start barking at me while I’m in my own yard- I say in a sincere friendly voice “Hi (dog’s name), what a good watchdog you are! “ and then go about my business. In a few days the dogs just ignore me while I’m gardening in my yard.

Remember anger usually reflects anger back- so do NOT glare at the dog, nor send hateful energy their way, as these things will only make the situation worse because the dog will believe you truly are a bad human, and that you definitely shouldn’t be where you are.

More articles like training the Quiet Command, Bite Prevention, Fear Aggression, Reactive Dogs, and Pup Basic Manners Training are available at my blog. The blog is open to the public, and free of charge.

❤️🐺❤️

All Basics-Dog Training

 Hello, 

Welcome to All Basics-Dog Training!

Do you have a new puppy, a reactive dog, or an adolescent dog needing guidance?  We offer helpful, easy to understand articles. The site is open to the public, and free of any charge.

Just click on any title from the glossary, and it will automatically bring you to that page. 

There is also a “search” bar where you can add any specific word like impulse control/nail trimming/senior dog, etc. to go directly to all the articles that contain that word.

*If you are using a mobile phone and would like to see our complete glossary of over fifty titles, please view on  “Web version” (bottom of the page).

Best wishes to you and your canine companions!

Kim Chappell 

and Kenji the Australian Cattle Dog.❤️🐺❤️

BITE PREVENTION

 Here is my article on BITE PREVENTION.

I vividly remember the first time I was bitten by a dog.  It was a dog chained outside his owner’s house, and I was a very young child. I went there with my Mother, and was told it was okay to pet the dog.  As I had been instructed I bent down, and slowly reached out my hand for the dog to sniff.  He lunged foreword without warning and bit me.  My hand was bleeding and I was horrified. Why would this cute little dog do such a thing when I obviously meant him no harm?  Unknown to me at the time, I had broken several of the basic rules that dogs live by. 
1- I made direct eye contact.
2-I misinterpreted his wagging tail as a greeting.
3- I moved straight towards him.
4-I leaned slightly over him.
5-I put my hand into his personal space.
6-The dog was restrained, which likely activated his fight response. 

It’s a common belief that by walking up to a strange  dog and putting your hand out for the dog to sniff is the proper way to introduce yourself to them.  Nowadays more than ever this belief is getting people bitten, and healthy dogs euthanized. 

The majority of dogs naturally have a personal space area, a “bubble” per say.  Inside of that bubble their genetic survival instincts respond to perceived threats.  This area will be different for every dog, and every threat.

Dogs instinctively rely on four actions when they feel threatened.  Those are fight, flight, fidget, and freeze. 

Years ago we didn’t have the amount of nervous, anxious, and fearful dogs that we often see today in modern society, which adds to the problem.  Dogs were not as mass produced in puppy mills, and few came from other counties with little to no social skills.   
Many owners today are hesitant to advocate for their dogs, which in turn causes the dogs to deal with the situation.  Some breeds have also been intentionally bred to be more submissive overall, which unfortunately can cause them to be very insecure and easily stressed.

Resource guarding can also come into play.  To a dog a resource can be many things including food, a home, a toy, or even a person. 

With the necessary increased leash laws across the country we are seeing more dogs restrained by cables, chains, and leashes than ever before.
When a dog is restrained their flight response is removed, and very often their drive response is increased.  The added stress of spacial pressure from a stranger moving toward the dog is often all it takes for the dog to react.  Some dogs will freeze, and hope the situation resolves itself by the threat backing away- when the stranger continues to advance toward the dog is often when the bite occurs. This can cause long term behavioral issues with the dog, as well as being a huge legal liability for the owner.

Dogs sense of smell is up to 100,000 times better than ours. They can interpret our scent and intention from several feet away, there is no need to pressure the dog by getting into their personal bubble and forcing them to sniff our hand.

DO:
- Let the dog have the choice to come up to you, if they aren’t interested- so be it.
-Always ask first if you can pet a stranger’s  dog.  Be respectful and accept “NO”,  if that is the answer.   Personal dogs are NOT public property.  
-Learn to read the dog’s body language, looks can be very deceiving.  A wagging tail indicates arousal, NOT necessarily that the dog is friendly.  A dog with a stiff body stance should  be left alone. 
-Move slowly, don’t lean over them, nor stare directly into their eyes.
- Turning your body to the side is less threatening to the dog than facing them straight on.
-Stay relaxed and calm.
-For dogs who are elderly, deaf, or blind take extra time so as not to startle them.
-Any time the dog backs away from you immediately stop what you are doing.
-Teach children NOT to run up to dogs.

DON’T:
-Don’t  reach over the dogs head to pet them, a scratch under the jaw is  much less stressful for the dog than patting them on the head.
-Don’t come toward a dog with your arms open and outstretched.  The dog may interpret  this as you are going to grab them.
-Don’t ever hold a dog’s face, and force them to look into your eyes.
-Don’t reach out and hug a strange dog, this can easily be taken as a life threatening   intention by the dog.  Every year many children get bitten in the face by hugging dogs.

Advocate for your own dog- other than the Veterinarian and their staff no one “needs” to touch your dog.  Dogs can be and are socialized very well by just learning to co exist around new people and other dogs without physically interacting with them.
It’s okay to tell people NO they can’t pet your dog. 
If the person continues to advance, I get my dog behind me.
I put my hand up like a traffic cop toward the person, with a firm verbal “NO”, which works for most.  I can also look at my dog and firmly say “LEAVE IT”, totally ignore the person, and walk away.  I don’t engage in conversation with them if they cannot be respectful.  The safety and well being of my dog must come first.

For information on how to correctly introduce personal dogs to new dogs please see my Acquainting Two Dogs article.

Many more dog training articles are available at my link below, including Fear Aggression, Muzzle Conditioning, Deterrents for Aggressive Loose Dogs, Dog to Dog Reactivity, and Restraint Training for Dogs.  The site is open to the public, and free of charge.❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

Our Demo dog - Kenji! ❤️🐺❤️