My article on BUILDING ENGAGEMENT WITH YOUR DOG.

Dogs pick up very quickly on our emotional and physical energy- if we are happy and enthusiastic, the dog is more likely to react favorably. Dogs often imitate other members in their pack, including the humans.

Sometimes having high value food inside a toy will help the dog gain interest in the toy.

Luring: The purpose of luring is to increase prey drive in the dog, and bonding/engagement with the owner. It’s also great exercise for the dog, and helps satisfy their need to bite. Engage the dog’s prey drive by tugging a fuzzy toy along the ground- move rapidly backwards a couple steps- reward, move rapidly to the left a couple steps-reward, move rapidly to the right a couple steps- reward. I use and recommend the Chase ‘N Pull toy. A homemade soft toy well attached to a strong string with a pvc pole will work too. I utilize the OUT or DROP command- which is to completely disengage from whatever is in their mouths, or whatever they are looking at. My blog contains a detailed article on OUT. While my methods do increase prey drive, it is in a controlled manner in which yes and no are very clear to the dog. *Younger pups should not be encouraged to jump up to get the lure, as their joints may not be sealed yet. Used in moderation dragging the lure along the ground for them to chase,and light tugging is fine for most pups. Light tugging should be done so that the toy and pup are kept horizontally, as tugging upward could cause damage to a young pup’s neck or spine.

Always stop playing BEFORE the dog wants to stop. Even if the dog only plays for 30 seconds, stop at 29 seconds. Be consistent with this, and very gradually add more duration. Results doing this are astounding.

Dogs who have many toys always around never really learn to appreciate them. I get one special toy, maybe leather/sheepskin/fur whatever the dog really loves- that only comes out for a very limited time, and only when he is engaging with you.

Try playing with the toy by yourself, have the dog tied or held nearby without other distractions, so they see you playing. Holding the dog back builds drive, it makes them WANT to engage.

Many dog’s like balls, especially ones that squeak when bitten. To build engagement, try bouncing a ball against a wall, get very excited about the play. Again, dog is on tie back with nothing better to do than watch. You can also try having another dog,(or several), that get really excited over play in front of the tied dog, this can help build their desire to join in.

I highly recommend using the dog’s daily meals as rewards for training, this is one of the best things you can do for bonding with your dog. Hand feeding gives “ value” to the owner in the dog’s point of view, instead of giving the food bowl value. Dogs will take for granted what is given freely, controlling the dog’s most valuable resource gives us a huge advantage in training. I always set the dog up to win, none of the dogs I’ve worked with have ever missed a meal training this way.

CLICKER- A clicker is the fastest way to tell the dog they have done well. A food reward must be given every time it is clicked. Dog’s learn much faster when they know the reward is guaranteed.

HIDE AND SEEK- a great game for building drive and engagement. Have someone hold the dog, and you go just slightly out of sight of the dog, call the dog’s name, then your recall word HERE/COME. The helper releases the dog. When the dog reaches you give a jackpot (handful of the dog’s daily meal) to the dog.

WAIT and TAKE IT game is used to build calm behavior, and focus on the handler. Take a piece of food in your hand, with fist closed. Bring your hand close to the dog. Give a verbal WAIT command. Let the dog sniff, but don’t let them have it until they settle a bit and are calmer, then say TAKE IT, open your hand and reward.

FOCUS GAME using the dog’s daily meals. Have the dog sit on a safe raised object. Stand in front of the dog. Let the dog see you take two pieces of their food, one in each hand. Outstretch your arms all the way out from your side. Look directly at the dog’s eyes and make a “kissy” sounds or other attention getting noise with your mouth. The instant the dog turns their gaze from your hand to your face IMMEDIATELY say YES! - and reward from either hand. Repeat often for best results.

TOUCH ( to a hand)is also a very helpful command. Hold a safe object like an empty water bottle in front of the dog, usually curiosity will lead the dog to put its nose on it. Immediatly reward the dog. If they are uninterested, put a piece of kibble inside the bottle and shake it- reward when dog touches the bottle. Add the verbal cue TOUCH once they get the idea. If the dog tries to bite the bottle, use a two quart sized one instead. Once the verbal command is learned it can be used to get the dog’s attention away from other distractions. It can also help position the dog while doing basic obedience like heel. The TOUCH command is also very valuable when I have a dog who is worried about an object. Utilizing a clicker, I’ll condition the dog to touch the fearful object - then reward them for doing so.

TRAIN SIMPLE TRICKS- ones that dogs often love are fast paced like SPIN, CATCH, and BACK.

ADDING VARIATION keeps training more exciting for the dog and keeps them engaged longer. Be consistent with the training, but inconsistent with the routine you use. Switch hands when using food, add a trick like spin. Do an obedience command, then throw a trick in, or a quick game of tug ( providing the dog understands the rules) then add another obedience exercise.

TRAINING EQUIPMENT - A specific collar/harness are often used by law enforcement and the military for tracking, a different one for protection work, a different one for being a house pet. The dogs quickly associate the equipment with the exercise, and disengage from that exercise when the equipment is off. Utilizing a specific collar on the dog can also mean “food is now available through training” and taking it off means “training is over, window is closed”. This can really help the dog to distinguish the difference between engagement work/play and relax time- thus training the dog to learn to have an OFF switch.

Recall on lead, using pieces of the dog’s meal. Let the dog move about in a mildly distractingly area, then call the dog’s name. When they come towards you, step back a couple feet, stay animated and exciting, then reward the dog when they reach you.

Play keep away using a toy. The dog MUST be able to actually grab the toy during the game, or else it causes frustration and often even aggression in the dog. Train and utilize the OUT command during the play. 

Confidence building exercises are also excellent. I highly recommend them for increasing engagement with your dog. Luring the dog with high grade food rewards up/under/over/through all sorts of safe natural and man made objects helps with engagement, as well as bonding with your dog.

More articles like Adolescent to Adult- Problem Solving, Pup Basic Manners Training, Reactive Dogs, Nail Trimming, and Senior Dog Care are available at my blog, which is open to the public and free of charge.

My past girl Zoë- winning costume class, tricks class, and overall BEST IN SHOW.