DETERRENTS FOR AGGRESSIVE LOOSE DOGS

 Here is my article on Deterrents For Aggressive Loose Dogs.

I feel this is a very common and important subject.  People should know how to protect themselves and their leashed dogs when out for a walk.
Most aggressive loose dogs are bluffing,  but there are also loose dogs out there that will attack another dog with the intent to do damage. 

It’s my hope that giving people some ideas and options they will be better prepared in the unfortunate event that it happens to them.

KNOW THE LAWS:
-If you damage another persons dog in the process of defending yourself/your dog - regardless of if it attacked you/your leashed dog first- you may still be held responsible by law for the damaged dog.
-Abide by your local laws on what you can carry to defend yourself.  

In the event you/your dog are damaged you will want the authorities on your side.
-Be a responsible dog owner, and keep your own dogs leashed where the law requires it. 

THINGS YOU CAN TRY:
- No single method is always going to work in every case.  Having a  “Plan B” is advisable.
-If there is a leash law where you live, call animal control until you get some results concerning the loose dogs.
- Slowly walk away at an angle if possible-  keep the dog in the corner of your eye, and be ready in case they decide to charge again.  
-Be proactive,  plan ahead for what might happen, watch a block or more ahead of you for loose dogs, so you can change your path to avoid them.
-Walk with someone else as backup, there is safety in numbers.
-If the owner is nearby ask them to PLEASE call their dog, some will comply.
-Train your own dog to get behind you- most dogs will attack another dog, but are very reluctant to attack a human.  Taking your own dog out of the equation will help greatly.
-Pointing a finger at the oncoming dog and giving a firm, loud verbal “NO!” may help.   If you know the dogs name, use that as well.
-Don’t panic, don’t run- It encourages their prey drive, and dogs can easily out run you.
-Sometimes having your own dog go into a DOWN position before the aggressive dog gets to you may help neutralize the situation, as now they are seen as less of a threat.  
-Put a jacket or backpack between you and the oncoming dog, keep in mind you want to protect your own head, neck, and vital organs.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE BITTEN:
- Get the name and address of the loose dog’s owner.

- Get the names and addresses of any witnesses.

- Document the loose dog on video if possible, this will help prove your case.

-If you or your dog are bitten by another dog, immediately call the police and fill out a written complaint. 
-Get photos of the damage, record the date and time.
-Keep any Veterinary records of damage to your dog.
-Keep any hospital or Doctors records if you got hurt.

PRODUCT OPTIONS:
Living in New York I am very limited by what I can carry - these are all products anyone can legally carry.  I recommend desensitizing your own dogs to these products prior to using them against loose dogs when you are out and about. 

Bang Snaps Poppers- These are made from a small amount of sand or gravel, impregnated with a very small amount of silver fulminate and placed ball like inside cigarette paper.  When thrown against the ground it produces a loud bang.  They are safe (don’t allow your dog to eat them) effective, and inexpensive.  I remove them from the baggie, and throw the whole handful down hard against the ground towards the oncoming dog. Adding a firm verbal “NO!” just before the throw is also helpful. 

I use a Doggie Don’t Device which is a very loud battery operated product that sounds like high voltage. Audible only, no physical effects. 

Effective against coyotes as well. 

Opening a large umbrella quickly towards the oncoming dog, along with a firm verbal “NO!” can be very effective. Dogs see the colors blue and yellow the best, my choice for this would be yellow. You can even paint large eyes on it to appear more intimidating.👁👁

Pet Corrector and Pet Convincer are both compressed air in a can or cylinder which emit a burst of air and a hissing sound which startle the dogs.  Air horns or a sharp sounding whistle can also be effective. 

Be forewarned that pain can make some dogs MORE aggressive, which is something to keep in mind when choosing a deterrent.  
Here are a few more options.
-Citronella spray
-Water bottle with cider vinegar in it.
-Pennies inside a tin can, shaken may startle and discourage some dogs.
-Golf club, often a dog will bite the first thing it gets to.
- Clatter stick
-Walking stick
-Ski pole
-Shock prod for livestock 

Throwing treats to an aggressive dog is a double edged sword, because it may distract them away from you, but it also is rewarding them for being aggressive.  Most truly aggressive dogs won’t be interested in treats.

Legal to carry, but may damage the aggressive dog’s eyes- plus you may also get spray back into your own dog’s, or your eyes.

-Halt Dog Repellant
-Wasp spray 
-Bear spray
- Gel Mace with UV dye.  Thicker and more effective than regular Mace.  The color and pepper scent may stop the dog before it gets to you. 

BREAKING UP A DOGFIGHT- always use caution, as dogs often redirect on humans if they are touched when they are in the rage of a fight.  Any time you put your hands near two dogs fighting there is a chance of getting bitten.
If you get a slip lead on the aggressive dog’s neck and then they try to bite you- pull the lead firmly upward until the dog’s front feet aren’t touching the ground.  Once they relax immediately lower them. This is to be used an emergency self preservation procedure only.

- #1 most important thing is STAYING CALM. 
-Throw a blanket, towel or coat over the two dogs. A “weighted” blanket works best.
-Use a barrier like a metal garbage can lid, or wide board to block them from each other.
-Bang metal dog bowls together, sometimes the noise will stop them.
-Hose sprayed or a bucket of water thrown on them.
-A straw broom can be used to “porcupine “ the aggressive dog in the face, the sensitive area of the flank, or right behind the dog’s ears.  Add a firm verbal “NO!” at the same time.
-Put a slip lead or leash threaded through it’s handle on the most aggressive dog, around his neck or groin area, pull him to a secure object like a fence and tie him off. I carry an extra 6’ nylon lead with me. 
Use a belt if you don’t have a lead.  Often once the more aggressive dog has stopped fighting, the other will automatically stop as well.
-Train your own dogs the OUT command, proof it solid. I have a detailed article on training this.
-Use a fire extinguisher sprayed just above their heads.
-For tiny dogs fighting, someone wearing pants may be able to use their legs/ feet to separate them.
-Most breeds of dogs snap and bite at each other when they fight.  Bully breed types tend to bite and hold instead, often thrashing to rip off a large piece of flesh.  For a bully breed dog that has a solid grip on you or your dog, and won’t release- you can use a large plastic tent stake ( ground stake) to break their hold.  This can be used as a bite/ break stick ( which are illegal to carry in NY because they are considered dogfighting paraphernalia) on bully breeds that have a firm grip on you or your dog. It is recommended this be only used on bully breeds.  I don’t have personal experience using one to break a hold, so I don’t feel qualified to explain the proper method here. There are videos on the internet showing the procedure.

AFTER THE FIGHT - If the last thing the two dogs remember is fighting, it will usually continue.  If you have cooperation from the other dog’s owner, immediately take both dogs together for a structured walk for at least an hour. One handler per dog.
I have a detailed article on Structured Walks, with many easy to learn training tips to help you achieve your goal.  I also have an article on Acquainting Two Dogs, which has additional useful information.

I’m personally willing to do whatever it takes to protect my dog, which includes driving elsewhere to walk my dog-  because honestly it’s just not worth the risk of getting my dog and/or myself damaged because of irresponsible dog owners.  
The choice is yours, choose wisely.

Disclaimer: All information above is to be used at the readers own personal risk. Neither All Basics - Dog Training nor Kim Chappell shall be held liable for the readers use of said products and or procedures.

More dog training articles like Dog To Dog Reactivity, Fear Aggression, Bite Prevention, Muzzle Conditioning, and Adolescent to Adult- Problem Solving are on my links below.  The sites are both open to the public, and free of charge. ❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

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