Here is my article on Training Pressure And Release - Introduction To Collars And Lead.
I start by hand feeding all the pups/dogs daily meals as rewards for training.
Hand feeding gives “value” to the human as seen by the dog. It increases bonding and their desire to interact with us. This is a huge advantage in our favor when training.
Because of “opposition reflex” - if we pull, the pup will instinctively pull back against us.
Pups will naturally be more inclined to follow a calm, balanced leader. Training using their daily food, and guiding them patiently and gently with collars and leashes through the process are key.
I use a flat buckle collar at first. I’d make it a game, show them the collar you plan to use- reward them,lay the collar over their necks and backs. *Just don’t let them chew on the collars.
Buckle the collar to itself. Make the collar big enough to easily go over their heads. Hold some of their food in your hand with the collar facing the dog to encourage them to put their head through.
Put the collar on and off a few times- reward for them wanting to put their heads through.
You can add the verbal cue COLLAR now. This word will work for putting slip leads on the dog too.
After this is going well- start putting the collar around the pups neck and gradually pulling the strap through the buckle and releasing. Be sure the pup stays calm, reward and praise often.
Fitting the collar properly:
The collar should fit snug, you should only be able to fit two fingers between the pup and the collar when fitted properly. A too loose collar can get caught on things easily, and potentially choke the dog.
Let them walk around a bit with the collar on- reward and praise. They may scratch at it a bit with their hind leg, or try and rub it off. This is normal, just distract them with a food reward or a toy.
Connect a “tab” ( piece of leash which is only about 6 to 8 inches long) to their collar, let them walk around a bit -reward and praise them.
Now put a longer leash on their collar, like a four or six foot one. Lure the pup around with food. Let them drag the leash at first,then pick up the leash and start guiding them with it while luring them.
Now just stand still for about 10-15 minutes holding the lead. If the pup pulls, just hold firm, when they come towards you, praise him.
We want the pup to move around a , but understand they are still connected to you.
If they decide to chew the leash immediately start walking, call them, give light tugs on the leash,and reward for them following you. You can incorporate a tug toy a this time to help them keep their minds off of chewing the lead.
I have another article on training the OUT command ( which is to totally disengage from whatever is in their mouths, or what they are looking at) using tugs and lures. A very useful command, I highly recommend this for all dogs.
Start to encourage the pup with your voice to follow you.
Call his name, and add the verbal cue HERE or COME. I use HERE as a recall word. Have the pup on a leash so you can enforce the command if needed by simply reeling them in. Reward and praise when the pup comes to you.I recommend rewarding with food and praise about 70% of the time, and just praise the rest of the time. Every now and then give the dog a “ jackpot” (handful of food)- this will encourage the dog to try harder.
Train the sit and down obedience commands by luring the pup into position with food, once learned add the verbal cues to them. I have more information on this in my Puppy Manners article.
Start proofing the obedience commands with the pup on collar and leash.
Removing the leash/collar:
Give the pup a release word ( I use BREAK), so he understands now he is off the leash, and can go and do whatever he wants. If you want him to do something else, just give him the verbal cue ( crate/place) for that, and supervise that he does it.
Incorporate the HEEL command by guiding with the leash, tapping the side of your leg , and luring into position with food or toy reward. Often working against a wall can help. If the pup has been trained the TOUCH command to your hand, this is very useful as well to help position the pup.
Give a verbal HEEL cue once the pup is responding well.
Once the pup understands leash pressure, and how to release it, I often will go to a Dominant Dog collar. These are fitted snug for each individual dog’s neck size, and they cannot slip out of one.
Combined with verbal cues, these are excellent for giving the dog communication through the leash on what we are requesting them to do. I highly recommend dominant dog collars as a training collar.
I remove all my dogs collars inside, for safety- as I’ve seen dogs get their collars hung up on the strangest things. Dogs playing with each other will sometimes get their jaws hooked inside the other dogs collar as well.
I remove all collars when the dog is in the crate.
On a side note:
I highly recommend having all pups and dogs micro chipped, having the chip checked,and keeping the identification information updated every year. When shelters/rescues release a pup/dog it’s the new owner’s responsibility to update the contact information, as most shelters/rescues don’t keep records after the animal has been placed.
More articles available on my site below, which is open to the public and free of charge.❤️🐺❤️
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