Treadmill Training

 Here is my article on Treadmill Training for Dogs.


Dogs view walking on a treadmill very differently than we humans do. Many dogs absolutely LOVE the workout, and really look foreword to being on it.  My black Labrador used to jump on the treadmill, and bark for me to go turn it on for her! 

While this certainly doesn’t take the place of a structured on leash walk, or a dog being outside on a longline to sniff and explore, it still offers many benefits- especially during inclement weather.

Daily work on a treadmill is an activity which is excellent for a dog’s mental focus (they have to concentrate on the speed and staying centered ), as well as being a year round low impact physical exercise. 
It’s also worthwhile training for confidence building and bonding with your dog, because working them through the process builds trust.  
I’ve also used a treadmill to help a dog work through their fears- dogs don’t multitask any better than we do, so I can have them walking on the treadmill and slowly desensitize them to things they’ve been fearful of in the past. 

My 5 year old Australian Cattle Dog “Kenji” does one hour twice a  day at a walk. He started treadmill training at 4 months old, and once conditioned he would spend about 15 minutes twice a day on it.  The treadmill has helped calm him mentally, and has kept him at an excellent healthy body weight.  Lean, fit dogs live an average of two years longer than their overweight siblings. 

Young dogs should start with the treadmill flat, while conditioned adult dogs can go with the treadmill at an angle- which is more difficult and really builds hind quarter muscle and stamina.  A well conditioned adult dog can do a “power walk” which is a very fast walk, just before they change into the easier trot gait. This uses up lots of energy, without putting excessive impact on their joints like running and jumping can.

Many senior dogs can also be treadmill trained, although duration work should be more gradual to allow a bit more time for their bodies to adjust. 
I would generally keep the treadmill level for seniors.  

The treadmill can also be used for rehabilitation, work with your Veterinarian to find the best schedule routine for your own dogs needs.
My past Rottie x Pit mix had arthritis in her spine, and she lost muscle mass in her hind legs. I set a ladder over the treadmill, and utilizing a special support harness to stabilize her hindquarters she was able to regain much of her muscle back- enabling her to walk on her own again and along with supplements and monthly acupuncture, enjoy several more good years of life.
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TREADMILL TRAINING 

I use an electric human treadmill, it folds up to take only about three square feet of space when not in use. There are also several electric treadmills specifically made for dogs available as well.  Most treadmills have an emergency stop magnet with a string attached, which is a nice safety feature.

The biggest factor about the treadmill itself is making sure the track ( belt the dog walks on) is is wide and long enough for the dog to do an extended walk on it.  I have two treadmills- a  Keys S.E.S. and a Weslo Cadence, both were used and inexpensive.  
The belt on my treadmills is 16” to 18” wide, and 50” long which is plenty big enough for a large ( 80 pound) dog. 
Kenji’s walking speed is 2 ( two) mph, but every dog should be treated as an individual according to their breed, size,age, and current condition.

Many dogs are very nervous about the unnatural movement ( they are moving, but not going anywhere) and noise of the treadmill at first, so I use their daily meal or if needed a very high value treat like cheese or meat as rewards while training.  Some dogs are more motivated by toys, than food. If using their favorite toy instead produces the same good results with treadmill training that is fine as well.   Verbal praise to the dog during the training is encouraged.

During the training I am always on the side or front of the machine, the dog is alone on the treadmill.  I often put a regular harness and very short (2’) lead on the dog, to help guide and stabilize them, and so I can hold them without the dog choking if they try and stop or back up while learning. 
*Use extreme caution the end of the leash doesn’t get sucked into the treadmill track. 

With the treadmill OFF :
I take food and lure the dog up onto the treadmill,starting at the end of the machine and going towards the front. 
Then I walk them right off the side when they get to the top- I don’t want them to ever think they are trapped on there.
Sometimes I will let them stand on it and feed them so they relax, and realize being up there has benefits for them.  
I’ll walk them on and off several times, making it a game. Reward them for doing well. Occasionally I will stop at the top and reward them for just standing there. 

Once they are comfortable with that I turn the treadmill on the slowest speed available and walk the dog calmly up onto it, starting at the bottom as before, and again off the side when I reach the top while it is running.  
I do this a few times, rewarding as I go . Now I will walk them up, and stand at the top and reward them for staying on the treadmill while it is moving. When they are at ease with that I will gradually turn up the speed, just to a comfortable walking speed for the dog. Keep the training sessions very short at first, some dogs require more time to adjust than others. 

After the dog is doing well I will add a verbal command of TREAD, and use this before I allow the dog to get on.  I’ll have them walk for just a few minutes, stop the treadmill, and then tell them BREAK- which is my verbal command to release them from the treadmill.  The BREAK command is also a built in safety feature so I know when they are coming off the machine, and the way is cleared.

Again the speed on the treadmill is always just a walking gait for the dog. This is for safety, and because we don’t want the dog getting scared and bailing off if it was going too fast. 
We also don’t want the dog’s body heating up too much, especially since he has a very small amount of food in him now. 

Treadmill work should always be supervised. 
I make sure the dog has been out to potty, and hasn’t drunk a huge amount of water right before going on the treadmill.
I personally do NOT tie the dog to the treadmill while they are walking on it.   I’ll stand by the tread with them at first to guide them if needed. 
I recommend removing the key from the treadmill when not in in use, as sometimes unkind people will turn the speed way up - which can cause the dog to fall off, and they may become fearful of going on the treadmill again.

After the trained dog gets on the treadmill, I “pay” him a few pieces of his daily meal for getting up there , and start up the treadmill.  I’ve found dogs look forward to and do better on the treadmill if they get that very small reward for it. Once conditioned the dog will usually stay on the treadmill by themselves without collar or lead.  I often find Kenji standing on his treadmill, waiting for me to come over and start it. 

More dog training articles including Fear Aggression, Potty Training, and Structured Walks are available at my link below, which is open to the public and free of charge.
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https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell/

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