Restraint Training For Dogs

 

Here is my article on Restraint Training For Dogs.

Restraint training applied gradually by the dog’s owner/handler in a positive manner produces results which will benefit the dog for it’s lifetime. 

Starting with young pups is ideal, but older dogs can easily be trained too.

The benefits of restraint training can readily be seen when taking your dog to the Veterinary clinic, or when a stranger’s unsupervised child runs up and hugs your dog.  

It can also help the dog override their natural instinct to panic when they are caught on an object.  

Done properly it’s also very good for building trust and bonding with your dog. 

I highly recommend the video series by Dr. Sofia A. Yin on Low Stress Handling as a visual guide.  Her techniques are easy to learn, and very effective.

FOOD AS A REWARD

I recommend using ALL the dogs daily meals as rewards for training.

Hand feeding gives “ value” to the human from the dogs point of view, instead of giving “value “ to the dog bowl.  Controlling the dogs most valuable resource helps the dog focus on the handler instead of being distracted, and helps ensure the leadership  position of  the human- this is a huge advantage in our favor.

SAFETY

Many children don’t ask before approaching a strange dog.  All too often when dogs are taken out into public some stranger’s young child will run up and throw their arms around the dog to give it a hug.  Although we see it as an act of kindness, dogs often naturally interpret it as life threatening act and react accordingly. This can result in a severe bite (usually on the child’s face), a possible legal expense  for the dogs owner, and unfortunately often the dog ultimately being euthanized.  

HEALTH EXAMINATION 

Restraint training teaches the dog to be less worried at the Veterinary clinic, when they are being held for examination.  This will make the entire visit to the Vet a much more pleasant experience for both the dog and owner, as well as the clinic staff.

HANDLING the dog all over is very important.   Opening their mouths, and handling their paws, ears, and tails is especially good to do.  Reward often with praise and piece of their meal. 

Done daily as part of the dogs routine, this takes very little time and the rewards are threefold.

TRAINING RESTRAINT

This article was written with medium sized dogs in mind, for very small or very large breeds the techniques can be altered to fit the circumstance. 

Be aware that your face will be quite close to the dog’s head during these exercises - if there is any chance of the dog trying to bite you I recommend getting them properly muzzle conditioned so they are comfortable wearing one, before attempting these exercises.

I have a very detailed article on muzzle conditioning at my link at the bottom of this article.

COUNTER CONDITIONING 

-I start training where the dog feels most secure, on the floor.

-Once the dog accepts being touched and handled all over we can get the dog used to being held.  

-Always praise with a calm low voice and reward with a piece of their daily meal after each exercise. 

-Start the holding process for just a second or two, then release.

-Begin with holding their paws, ears, and tail, next put your arm over their backs, then around their hind quarters, then across the front of their chest.   If they are accepting all that well, put your arm very lightly around their necks.  This can be very unnerving for many dogs, so take it slow. 

-Increase pressure very gradually, always keep the experience positive.

 -Sessions should be kept short, five minutes at a time is fine. 

-Providing multiple short sessions a day will increase the productivity of the training.  

-If the dog gets worried, go back a few steps and work them through it.  

-Some dogs will take longer than others due to their genetics, past experiences, and current trust in their owner.

LIFTING THE DOG

-Having a calm person to assist you can be very helpful when just starting out with these exercises.  

-Remember to praise the dog in a calm voice, and reward with a piece of their daily meal after each section of this exercise.

-Many dogs feel frightened or out of control when they cannot touch the ground, so this procedure may take considerably longer with certain individuals.  

-Be patient, it’s time well worth spending. 

- Start with just putting your hands on the dog.  

-Hold the dog’s collar/harness to stabilize them, and one at a time slowly lift each of the dog’s legs up a couple inches, then back down.

-Lift the dog’s front end just slightly off the ground by supporting under their chest and neck with your arms and hands. 

-Now lift the dogs rear end slightly off the ground by placing an arm under their waist. 

- Place one arm around the front of the dog’s chest, and your other arm under their hind quarters behind their hind legs.  

-Lift the entire dog up one inch from the floor, then immediately back down. 

-If they squirm, try and wait them out until they settle, then set them down.  

-Gradually add duration, safe stable height, and reduce the amount of food reward.

-Continue the calm praise throughout the entire process.

SITTING/STANDING QUIETLY ON A RAISED SURFACE

This will really help when the dog goes in for a Veterinarian check up.  

For anything above ground level, lure them with a food reward or lift the dog up, and encourage them with calm praise.

For extremely fearful dogs I use a high value treat like luncheon meat at first. 

Start with an object that is just a couple inches high, then gradually add duration of time on the object and advance to higher safe raised platforms once the dog is comfortable. 

Keep in mind the dog may try and jump off the object, so be prepared to catch or redirect them if necessary.

Training a solid verbal “ sit stay” and “stand stay” command will be very helpful as well.

TAKING THE DOGS TEMPERATURE 

Having an elevated or lower than normal body temperature is one of the first signs telling us the dog needs help.  I recommend having your Veterinarian show you the proper procedure, then have a helper with you the first few times. 

I use a plastic flexible tip digital rectal pet thermometer, which beeps when it reaches the dog’s highest body temperature. I also use disposable digital thermometer probe covers.

Generally 101.0 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit is the normal body temperature for a dog, while some individuals will run slightly higher or lower.  Above 104 or below 99 degrees Fahrenheit the dog should see a Veterinarian immediately.

NAIL TRIMMING

I have a detailed article at my site which specifically explains several different methods that can be used for producing a dog who handles the procedure well.  It’s a necessity for most dogs, as long nails can be a hazard as well as cause issues with their ability to walk properly.

There are many more detailed articles on Dog Confidence Building, Fear Aggression, Muzzle Conditioning, and Bite Prevention in my other posts.   

Here is the link to my site, which is open to the public and free of charge.  ❤️🐺❤️
https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell