Proper Electronic Collar Use

Here is m article on Proper Electronic Collar Use.

A quality low level electronic collar is my training tool of choice for dogs 5 pounds and over.  It bridges the gap between human and canine communication because it allows me to make yes and no very clear to the dog.

I use it to assist with loose leash heeling and other already learned basic obedience commands, for recall at a distance, and for interrupting undesirable behavior-so I can verbally redirect the dog to making better decisions.

Dogs are trained basic obedience commands using food, leash pressure, and toys, then lured into positions like sit, heel, and down well before adding the electronic collar.

Once the dog fully understands the verbal commands, I can give the dog a light tap with the e collar to get their attention, give the verbal cue, then if needed use the quality e collar as a consequence at the dogs working level for disobeying the cue. This is proofed hundreds of times on every obedience command.

I tell people to think of it as an invisible leash, anytime they would give a leash correction - use the e collar instead.

I always want to set the dog up to succeed, often this means starting at easier exercises first, then working up to the harder one.

The “shock” from a QUALITY e collar is a blunt static shock exactly the same as a tens unit used for muscle stimulation in humans, or scuffing your socked feet across a carpet and then touching someone.  They are NOT like a sharp electrical outlet type of shock that you get from and outlet or electric fence. 

Most underground fences are VERY different from the sensation delivered by a quality low level remote electronic collar. The majority of the levels that I use on dogs we humans cannot even feel, and yes, I’ve used the e collar on myself at a much higher level than I normally do for dogs.

A quality e collar can also be used to help dogs work through their fears and develop coping skills that they will have for the rest of their lives.

Used as communication on a properly conditioned dog they are a very humane and potentially life saving training tool.

Usually higher levels rarely need to be be used, because the dog now understands there is a consequence for directly disobeying a known command.  

I do have the option to use a higher level if my dog heads toward traffic, doesn’t respond to a verbal recall- and I have to stop him.

With aggressive dogs the key is to use the low level on the e collar to interrupt the dog at the very first indication of the behaviior, well before the dog has gone into drive- as by then the dogs adrenaline levels will be peaked, requiring the stimulation levels to be much higher- if effective at all.

Using an e collar for aggressive /fearful dogs should be left to a trainer that is well versed in this type of application.  I don’t recommend this for the average dog owner- as reading the dogs body language along with proper timing and level of stimulation are crucial for achieving the desired results. 

For new e collar owners I advise them having a good knowledgeable balanced trainer properly condition the dog so the dog understands he is too look to the handler for information when he feels a stimulation from the collar, then I have the trainer instruct the owner on how to use the transmitter (remote) responsibly.

I use and recommend the Mini Educator by e collar technologies. Less expensive models are often unreliable/have a sharp stimulation, which can cause you to inadvertently hurt your dog using them.

Unfortunately, there are many cheap imported e collars available to the general public which I totally agree should never be used on a dog.   Often their lowest level is higher that what I want to use on a dog, especially when I am just starting a dog out on an e collar. If the government were to ban this type of electronic collar, I would be the first one in line to sign the petition to have it banned.

Some people use the e collar incorrectly , by NOT training or using verbal cues, instead just “zapping” the dog every time it does something the person doesn’t like. Improper use of an e collar can result in causing the dog to shut down, or even redirect on the owner or another dog. 

Many dogs find the one level of vibration mode more unsettling than a low level stimulation, as static shock happens naturally in the environment-vibration is not as familiar. I personally never use vibration unless its with my PG-300 vibration Pager only e collar, which has 100 levels of vibration to work with, and the lower levels are very subtle.   

Some people use the tone option instead of, or before the low level stimulation as a “warning” to the dog. I prefer to only use tone to confirm the collar is responding before placing it on the dog.  I’ve found many dogs tend to get into the habit of ignoring the tone, or learn the owner will give several taps on tone before actually getting around to using the stimulation- which causes inconsistencies in the training.  My dogs life may depend on them recalling the first time, every time.

A good way to train a consistent recall is by proofing the recall often- every time I will call the dog’s name first, then HERE- give a quick tap the instant I say HERE on a level “2” or whatever the dog’s perception level is.. This achieves a very reliable recall both on e collar and off. After hundreds of repetitions this becomes muscle memory.

Dogs must be properly conditioned so they understand when they feel the low level stimulation from the QUALITY electronic collar they are to look to the handler for information. Now the handler can give a light tap to the dog through the e collar to get their attention, then verbally direct the dog to make better choices.

If your dog’s barking is part of the problem I suggest training the dog a verbal QUIET command, and a verbal LEAVE IT or OUT command first, they layering the low level e collar over the cue as a consequence for non compliance of known commands.

Some dogs can have an allergic reaction to the nickel in the contact points, there are special titanium contact points available form e collar technologies that screw right in as replacements.   

The e collar should be rotated to the other side of the dogs neck if it is worn more than a few hours at at time, as the contact points can cause pressure sores if left in one spot for too long.

If the dog is going to be swimming, the e collar should be placed high up on the back of the dogs neck, because the Mini Educator receiver does not respond to the transmitter if it’s underwater.

Regardless on how well trained a dog is to an e collar, I will never put the dog in an unsafe situation (traffic) without backup of a physical leash of some sort on the dog.

Always set the dog up for success by starting with lower distractions, and gradually adding harder ones. 

The e collar I use and recommend is the Mini Educator, it costs just under two hundred dollars, and worth every penny in my opinion. I feel the Mini Educator has the best range of stimulation, is the easiest for the new owner to use once set up, has reliable stimulation, and is durable. E collar technologies customer service is the best in the business as well if you have any questions. My ACD Kenji was fully trained to the Mini Educator by the time he was six months old. It has been a lifesaver for us.

I’ve used a Mini Educator on dogs that were so fearful they were afraid to move, now they are out enjoying life with their families.  If the general public saw the work that I and other trainers do using a quality e collar I believe they would understand the tool better. There are many dogs out there who are limited to only their own backyards because they are human or dog aggressive. A high percentage of these dogs when trained basic obedience and then properly conditioned to training tools often end up being able to now go places they their owners, and become part of the family again.

Electronic collars never are used to “train” an obedience command.  Basic obedience is trained by using food, toys, and leash pressure to lure the dog into the sit, down, and heel positions- and then the e collar is layered over or “proof” the already known commands.

In order for me to be fair, I must constantly evaluate the dog, the difficulty to the exercise, and the distractions involved in making my choice of when, and how much pressure (stimulation) from the e collar should be applied.  I use many different levels/numbers on my Mini Educator during my training. These numbers will change slightly as conditions change.

E collar TERMS:

Stimulation on a Mini Educator is the static sensation it delivers. This by definition is not an “electrical shock”, as many people like to call it. The technology in the Mini Educator is exactly the same as the static shock used on a “Tens unit” used for muscle stimulation in humans.

Perception level is the very lowest stimulation level that the dog can feel in a neutral environment.  This is the “tap” given to get the dogs attention.

Working level is the stimulation level that compels (pressures) the dog to perform the already learned task. This is usually numbers in the teens for most dogs.

Middle levels are used as a consequence when the dog refuses an already known command. These are generally in the thirty to fifty range for most dogs.

Act of God level corrections are the higher stimulation levels.  These are used only for safety and life or death situations.

Recall Fail is considered a life or death situation if he dog doesn’t respond to the verbal cue, and is heading into traffic.

Counter surfing is considered a life or death situation because the dog could eat sometime toxic like prescription medications, Xylitol, or dark chocolates. Counter surfing can be stopped by using a baby monitor placed overseeing the counter, and the dog corrected from another room or outside. We don’t want the dog to see us in this exercise, because we want them to stay off the counter whether or not we are present in the room.

Everything in a dogs world is a cost versus benefit. 

The proper way to use an e collar.
1-Buy a quality electronic collar
2-Condition the dog so they understand when they feel a stimulation from the e collar they are to look to the handler for information.
3-Give a tap or “nick” at the lower levels to get the dogs attention.
4-Give the dog an already learned verbal command.
5-Give a slightly higher stimulation as a consequence (if needed) for disobeying a known command.
6- Be fair, consistent, and always set the dog up to win.

CONDITIONING THE DOG TO A MINI EDUCATOR

The prerequisite to e collar training is:
(1) being able to read dog body language very well
(2) being able to quickly and accurately use the Mini Educator

If you are not confident and fully competent in both these categories I highly recommend having a good balanced trainer condition the dog, and then instruct you on how to use the transmitter (remote) responsibly.

Ideally, the e collar should first be worn by the dog several hours every day for a few weeks , but not turned on. This helps prevent the dog from becoming “ Collar- wise”, and only responding to commands when it is wearing the e collar.  Once the dog is trained to the e collar it’s also recommended they wear the e collar a few hours every day for a few months, even if we don’t plan to be using the stimulation on them.  After a time it will become muscle memory, and the dog will respond to commands whether or not they are wearing the e collar. 

I don’t take any chances with my dogs life, if we are in an area that is potentially dangerous I always have a leash or longline on my dog as a safety, regardless of how well he is e collar trained.

There are several different techniques that can be used to condition the dog to an e collar,  this is my personal preference.
The way I condition a dog to a Mini Educator is I first make sure the dog knows his name and the verbal recall cue HERE.

If the dog hasn’t had any prior training, this is the exercise to train the recall HERE command.
Using a light longline I allow he dog to move a few feet away from me. I give a verbal HERE command, and then I apply a light tug and guide him in to get him to come to me. Lengthen the line and repeat multiple times.  Some people call this the “groundwork” for e collar training.  Upon reaching me the dog is rewarded with praise, and depending on the dog, a food reward as well.
Ideally this exercise would be practiced hundreds of times, so the dog understands it very well.

Once the dog has a reliable recall and fully understands the HERE command it is ready to learn recall with an e collar using my methods.

I make sure the e collar is fully charged, turned on ( I use the tone option to verify this), and fitted properly on the dog.  The collar should rest on any flat spot on the dogs neck-which would be the sides or back of the dogs neck.  The collar must fit quite snug, because both points must contact the dogs skin for the e collar to work.

When conditioning the dog to the e collar, I work in a quiet outside area without distractions. Dirt or pavement is preferable over grass or areas with brush- as the dog will be more distracted by the smells in these.

To find the dogs PERCEPTION LEVEL- which is the lowest level on the e collar that the dog can feel- I start on a level 1 ( out of 100)
I set my e collar on M/C, and use only the red button.
I keep my finger OVER the continues (red) button- so I can give just a quick tap (nick) or I can lengthen the duration of that stimulation by using the same button at any given time I feel appropriate.
I slowly turn the level of stimulation up, I am looking for the most subtle sensation the dog feels- it may be a puzzled look on the dogs face, a head cock, or an ear twitch as if a fly landed on it.

Once finding the dogs perception level I will start with the dog on a 20 foot longline.
I allow the dog to move away from me just a few feet, then apply the tap to the e collar, a verbal HERE, and guide them with the long line to me. If the dog starts to veer off I repeat by a tap on the e collar, another verbal HERE command, and guide the dog in. I repeat this until the dog reaches me.
I reward with praise when they reach me, and depending on the dog, a food reward as well.
Repeat multiple times, gradually making the long line longer, and fazing out the tug from the line, until the dog is coming right in directly to me by just using the verbal cue and the e collar.
Lots of praise/food reward when they reach me. Repeat this several times.

Some dogs will do better with continues pressure (stimulation) until they reach me, then release the pressure  (stimulation) and praise/reward them once they get to me. I still use verbal cues, and the long line to help guide the dog.

Note:The stimulation levels may bounce around a bit during this conditioning phase, this is normal. Once the dog fully understands the e collar the numbers will be much more consistent. 

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I use a quick release snap, so the collar is fitted perfectly on that dog.

I also add a silicon ring, which makes the collar more comfortable for the dog, and gives a better contact for the points. Some people prefer to use a special bungee accessory instead. E-collar Technology also makes “ winged comfort pads” which can really help if you are having trouble getting a good contact with dogs who have very thick fur.