Crate Training

 Here is my article on CRATE TRAINING.

Proper crate training starts with the crate door open, hand feed the pup through the crate bars with door open, and then with the door closed for just a few seconds. 
Slowly add duration to the crate door being closed. Practice many times during the day, so the pup learns the crate is a good place to be in. 

The crate should be big enough for the pup to stand, turn around,and lie down in. With a larger crate you can use a divider at first. Having a crate that is too big encourages the pup to potty in there- pups don’t want to get potty on them, but if there is room for the pup to easily potty and still stay clean, it may.

The pup should never be just forced into the crate and left, this will cause anxiety, and difficulties in crate training.

Hand feeding gives “ value” to the human from the dogs point of view, instead of giving “value “ to the dog bowl. It helps the dog focus on the handler instead of being distracted, and this is a huge advantage in our favor. 

Put part of his food into an interactive toy like a rubber Kong, freeze it so it takes longer for them to eat it.  Have him go into his crate, then reward him with the toy.
Remember he will need to go out to potty once he finishes his meal.

Raw carrots fed in moderation are a good thing for the pup to chew on, and will help with his teething issues.

Pups are going to whine and bark at first when left in the crate, this is normal. Just stay calm and ignore it. Do not let them out until they are quiet, if let out while whining it will increase the behavior.  Tether the pup to you while inside and not in the crate, this way you can supervise him, and immediately take him out to potty when needed.

Reward calm behavior, for the pup just sitting there doing nothing. It will pay off. Pups are going to do what rewards them. Give a small piece of food through the bars as a reward.
A verbal GOOD QUIET is an excellent praise to use to let the pup know he is doing well.

You can also put the pups food or toy into the crate, and close the door. Allow the pup to circle his food or toy from the outside of the crate for a couple minutes, then open the crate door and allow him inside.  This builds drive for him to want to be in the crate.

Close the crate door when the pup is out, so other pets /children don’t go into the pups crate. 

Chew bones should be given in the crate, the pup should also be taught the verbal OUT command, so he will totally disengage from whatever is in his mouth, or he is looking at. 

Crate manners - At the verbal CRATE command the pup should walk calmly in , be quiet in the crate, and wait for a release word from the human before they can come calmly out. I use BREAK as my release word. 
If the crate door opens and the pup tries to come out before the release command, gently close the crate door before they get their head out. You will see an immediate change of attitude , more respect from the pup, and now the pup is more focused on you and how you want it to behave outside the crate as well.

Things you can do to help calm the pup are leave a loud ticking clock nearby, put a blanket over the crate ( as long as they don’t chew on it), and leave classical music or a white noise machine on. 

Tiny pups can be crated near household activities- like the living room or kitchen. Once they get a bit older it’s preferable for them to be moved into another room so they learn to be more independent from us.  Getting them used to being alone will help prevent separation anxiety symptoms.

For very small pups a hot water bottle or heated disc can be placed under a towel for them to sleep on. Remove them if the pup starts to chew on it.

Pups should be supervised with appropriate chew items, As the item becomes smaller it may turn into a choking hazard. Edges can often be chewed off toys and swallowed by the pup, causing a blockage later on. Rawhide bones can be especially dangerous. Rope toys and soft fuzzy toys can also be easily chewed apart and swallowed, causing issues. Kong rubber toys, and Nylabone chews are generally pretty safe. I always buy the largest size.

Anxiety in dogs is often created unknowingly by humans.
It’s important when leaving not to make a big deal out of going.
For example this is what NOT to say when you leave the dog - “ It’s okay, I’m going to miss you so much, don’t worry, I’ll be back soon!!!” This will cause stress and anxiety in the dog, then the owner leaves them alone - and that is the state of mind they often stay in for hours.

I recommend leaving calmly and quietly,and give the dog an interactive food toy like a rubber Kong toy- filled with part of the dogs daily meal, if frozen even better as it will take longer for them to empty it. This often distracts the dog long enough for you to get out the door before they realize you are gone.  Often the dog accepts the situation, and rests. Leaving white noise, TV, or classical music on can also help calm the dog while you are gone.   
The same goes to when we come back home to the dog, calmly greet the dog.  
When I come home I DON’T immediately go to the dog, I take care of my own stuff first for a few minutes, allowing the dogs mind and adrenaline to settle a bit before letting him out of his crate or kennel - this puts him in a calmer, more balanced state of mind, instead of the frenzied mind often caused by letting him out immediately.

There are many articles on potty training, the OUT command, helping anxious/nervous/ fearful dogs, and more on my site below which is free and open to the public. ❤️🐺❤️
https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell/